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Reborning Tips

Wigs

How I attach wigs

The glue I use for attaching wigs, is Selleys' "All Fix" - "Sticks just about anything to anything" - dries white and can be cleaned up with water.

I have used the Selleys' All Fix glue many times, and it has worked well and is easier to manage than non water based glues. If Selleys' All Fix gets on something, it's easier to remove - it's water wash-off while wet. All Fix has provided the best bond to vinyl, of the glues I have tried so far.

Please note I make no claim to be an expert at applying wigs. The below technique works for me, but you may have a much better way of applying a wig. I suggest you research the internet for other suggestions on applying wigs. I also cannot guarantee the long term efficacy of the glues I use. Of course, wigs can always be re-glued if they do eventually lift.
  • Have 2 or 3 damp cloths on hand for emergency clean up.
  • Remove label from wig. Please note The label goes to back of the head. Also if the wig has strips of fabric with velcro flapping around, these should be cut off too. I assume these strips are used to reduce the size of a wig if you don't plan to glue the wig to the head.
  • Position wig in the position you are happy with. Don't rush this - once glued it is very messy to redo. When you are happy with the position, lightly draw a line with chalk round the wig line at the front of the head on the vinyl.
  • Remove wig. Turn wig inside out and put shower cap over hair side of the wig leaving the inside (mesh) of the wig exposed and pin around the edge of the hole to keep in place. Insert pins from the side away from the hole. Stick them through two layers of the shower cap and through the hair. This is an attempt to stop the hair getting glue all over it.
  • Apply glue around the edge of the wig, on the band/elastic section (the outer 1cm approximately). If you want to put any glue in the centre section of the wig, apply it VERY thinly on the head of the doll, not on the wig. If glue is applied to the centre section of the wig, it will almost certainly seep through the mesh and gunk up the hair. The edge of the wig is the most important and critical area to put glue. Be careful to not put too much there as well. It can ooze out and get on the hair.
  • Place wig on the doll, positioning the front section of the wig where your chalk marks are. Stretch it over the back of head to fit. You may need to remove the shower cap during this operation.
  • Quickly and thoroughly wipe away any glue that has got where it shouldn't be.
  • Remove the shower cap and make any final adjustments to positioning.
  • Once again, thoroughly check for any glue on hair or vinyl, and wipe off.
  • Stretch the foot of an old pair of pantyhose over the wig until the glue dries.

Bodies

If you want to make your own baby body, here are the approximate proportions:

    Body = 2 head lengths
    Legs = 1.5 head lengths
    Arms reach to top of head

Eyes

  • Minor scratches can sometimes be polished out with Brasso on a soft cloth.
  • A thin coat of clear 'Papier Glass Finish' by Plaid, can also hide minor scratches. It must be applied quickly, as it dries very quickly and if you work it for long, you will cause it to dry with lines.
  • To clean dust off eyes, I brush them with a very soft haired paint brush then wipe them over with a cotton bud dipped in clear machine oil eg sewing machine oil.

Eyebrows

I don't use Genesis paint for eyebrows. I haven't been able to get a decent colour. It always seems to go a funny colour when I cook it.

    For brunettes I use Jo Sonya Burnt Umber. I have 2 shades of it - straight Burnt Umber & Burnt Umber lightened a bit.

    For blondes I use Jo Sonya's Provincial Beige. I have 2 shades of it - straight Provincial Beige. Provincial Beige lightened a bit.

    For redheads I use Jo Sonya's Brown Earth. I have 2 shades of it - straight Brown Earth. Brown Earth lightened a bit.

I lightly mark on the eyebrows in pencil following the ridge on the vinyl (for blonde eyebrows, don't use a dark pencil). Then I lightly brush the hairs following the pencil lines. I go over the eyebrows 6 times, alternating between the shades. After each sweep, I blot with a tissue and scrape with a pointy wooden toothpick to keep the hairs delicate.

Eyelashes

How I attach eyelashes

  1. If lashes have adhesive on them, remove it by carefully rubbing it off with your fingers. Sometimes it helps to paint a line of eucalyptus oil along the adhesive, before you pull the lashes off the packaging. If you let it soak for 5 minutes, it can make it easier to get that awful adhesive off. If left on, the adhesive can sometimes spoil the look - specially if there is a lot of adhesive. To get the eucalyptus oil off, press several times between a tissue.

  2. Paint a thin strip of water-based clear drying good quality craft glue, on the edge of the eyelash, or between the eyeball and the vinyl eyelid, or both. Remove any glue that has inadvertently got on the wrong place, with a damp cotton bud.

  3. Carefully push lashes between eyeball and eyelid with a metal nailfile or an eyelasher (plastic tweezers with a curved plate on the end to hold the eyelash in a curved position). It is easy to scratch the eyeball, if using a nailfile. Be very careful!!! Don't push the lashes up too far or the lashes won't sit correctly. Push them as far as they will go before the angle of the eyelash is wrong.

  4. Remove thoroughly any glue on eyeball with damp paintbrush or cotton bud.

  5. When the glue is dry, some reborners like to coat the eyeball with a very thin coat of clear 'Papier Glass Finish' by Plaid. I don't know the long term effect this will have on the eyes, but it looks very effective. Even if you don't want to paint it all over the eye, it can be painted onto where the lashes meet the eyeball to give added adhesion. It is optional, but extremely effective at strengthening the eyelash join.

Nostrils

  1. Open nose using 3 or 4 drill bits with the tops wrapped with a wide rubber band ( this makes drill bit easier to grip)

  2. (As a precaution, you may like to stick a Bandaid or piece of sticky tape under doll's nose for protection.)

  3. Start with the smallest drill bit 1.59 mm (1/16"), then use a 2.38mm (3/32") drill bit, then 2.78mm (7/84"). These three sizes are often enough, but f you have a larger doll, finish using a 3.17mm (1/8") drill bit.

  4. Finish nostrils off by smoothing rough edges with a round file. Use extreme caution. It's easy to slip and damage the doll's face with the file.

Painting Doll's Insides

  1. I use a mauve acrylic paint similar to Jo Sonya's Amethyst but I add some extra white. Never use a dark mauve or purple. As acrylic paint dries, it darkens. If you use too dark a paint, it will make the baby look bruised where the vinyl is thin.
  2. If you do use a too dark paint, you can usually get most of it out with acetone, even if the paint has been on for some months. But it is an awful lot of work. It's much better to use the proper colour to start with. PLEASE NOTE Acetone must be used outside as it is very dangerous to inhale. You must wear gloves and preferably glasses and a mask.

    You can also paint inside your doll with a very dilute Genesis Heat Set paint mix. Some reborners like this effect. I prefer the acrylic paint for inside the doll.

Removing Stains From Vinyl

The quicker you remove a stain, the better. Here are some substances that may remove stains from vinyl:

  1. WD40 (need to wash off after the stain is removed to get rid of the smell)
  2. Methylated spirits
  3. Toothpaste
  4. Jiff or Gumption
  5. Olive oil
  6. Eucalyptus oil - a stubborn stain can sometimes be removed by soaking a cotton ball in eucalyptus oil and sticky taping it onto the stain for a few hours.
  7. Nail polish remover gel by Cutex
  8. Goof Off or Acetone*
  9. Acne Cream with 5% benzoyl peroxide (10% is better, but I don't have any). I apply the acne cream thickly on the stain and put it under a lamp to heat it (be careful not to have it close enough to burn it). I leave it under the lamp for a couple of hours then remove the cream. If it's still there, I put the cream back on the stain and put it under the lamp again. It works well for stubborn stains.

*Dangerous chemicals! - Only use outside and have rubber or plastic gloves, and wear a mask.

You have to be very careful where you put your vinyl doll. I recently had a vinyl doll sitting on a little cane chair. I picked him up as he was very overdue for a clean and noticed that the varnish from the chair had stuck to the vinyl limbs and marked it quite badly. I scrapped the varnish off and removed the stains with Gumption. Now I have a cushion for him to sit on so he doesn't come into contact with the cane.

Veins

My favourite way of doing veins, is with a blue watercolour pencil. It must be a proper watercolour pencil not a normal coloured pencil. I wet the sharply pointed pencil and softly draw the veins. Then with a damp cloth which I have ready, I dab most of the colour off. It is permanent, easy and looks realistic.